Whirlpool Washer Error Codes: F9 E1, F8 E1, 5d and More

Whirlpool washer error codes tell you which system stopped the cycle: the drain, the water supply, the suds, the lid or door lock, or the load, and most start with a check you can do yourself. Whirlpool says its lists may not include every code for your model, so confirm your code in your owner's manual or on Whirlpool's front load error code page.

Safety first: unplug the washer or switch off its breaker before you reach behind it or open any panel, and keep towels down, because water and electricity do not mix. Never force, tape or bypass a lid lock or door lock.

How to reset a Whirlpool washer

1. Check Control Lock first. Whirlpool says that with Control Lock set, the control will not operate at all, and you may see a light or a padlock lit.
2. Cut the power for 5 minutes. Unplug the washer for 5 minutes, then plug it back in. If it is hard-wired, switch off the breaker that powers it for 5 minutes, then switch it back on.
3. Restart the cycle. Reselect the cycle and press Start.

There are two shortcuts for specific codes. On front-loaders, Whirlpool's error code page clears several codes, including Int, F5 E2 and F7 E1, by pressing Pause or Cancel twice and then Power once.

On top-load HE washers, Whirlpool's list says to press Start/Pause once to clear an F# E# code, then press it again to restart.

Many Whirlpool washers also have a factory reset, which returns every setting to factory values and deletes saved profiles and preferences; the steps are in your owner's manual. Maytag publishes the same 5-minute reset and Control Lock check. If a code comes back after a reset, the washer needs service. For other brands, see how to reset a washing machine.

F9 E1: washer not draining

F9 E1 means the washer is taking too long to drain. Whirlpool's front-load page puts it at drain times longer than expected, typically over eight minutes. Some top-load models show drn for the same long-drain problem. Whirlpool's checks:

1. Make sure the drain hose goes no more than 4.5 inches into the standpipe or laundry tub. Pushed deeper, it can siphon.
2. Do not seal the hose into the pipe with tape. It should be loose yet secure, with an air gap around it.
3. Straighten any kinks, and clear clogs from the hose, the standpipe or the laundry sink.
4. On a front-loader, clean the drain pump filter if your model has one (the manual shows where), with towels and a shallow pan down first.
5. Also check the small drain holes inside the door seal. Whirlpool says the washer may not drain well if they clog.

Whirlpool's front-load page also gives a standpipe height of 39 to 96 inches.

When to call a technician: the hose and filter check out but F9 E1 returns. A failing drain pump is the usual cause; our guide to a washer not draining or spinning covers the symptoms.

F8 E1, LF or Lo FL: washer not filling

F8 E1 or Lo FL means the washer is not detecting the correct amount of incoming water. LF means it is taking too long to fill. Whirlpool says the door or lid may lock and the controls stop responding while the washer runs a drain routine of roughly 8 to 10 minutes, so let that finish first.

1. Open both the hot and cold faucets all the way. Whirlpool says the washer needs both.
2. Check that the hoses are not kinked, and that the red hose goes to the hot valve and the blue hose to the cold.
3. Remove any anti-flood devices; Whirlpool says they can reduce the water pressure and the amount of water entering the washer.
4. Turn off the water, disconnect the hoses at the washer and clean the inlet screens in place, without removing them, using an old toothbrush, mild soap and water.
5. Check the drain hose depth again; a hose pushed too deep can siphon water out as the washer fills.

When to call a technician: the water is on, the hoses and screens are clear, and the code keeps returning. The water inlet valve is the usual repair; see washer not filling with water.

5d, Sd or Sud: too many suds

Whirlpool lists Sd and 5d as the same code: the washer has found excessive suds and is running a suds reduction routine, so let it continue. Some models show Sud instead.

• Use HE detergent, measured by the detergent maker's directions for your load size and soil level.
• Save large detergent pacs for large or heavily soiled loads.
• Skip "no splash" or "easy pour" chlorine bleach. Whirlpool says it contains a thickening agent that can create excess suds.

This is a detergent fix, not a repair.

Lid and door codes: F5 E2, F5 E3, Lid, LdL and LdU

• F5 E2 (top-load): the washer cannot engage the lid lock, possibly because something is in the way. Check the lid lock area and make sure no clothing is in the way.
• F5 E2 (front-load): the door is not locking properly. Make sure nothing blocks the door and it closes completely.
• F5 E3 (top-load): a door lock problem. Whirlpool says to reset the control by unplugging for 5 minutes.
• Lid: the lid was left open. Close it to clear the display. If it stayed open more than 10 minutes, the water drains; restart the cycle without adding more detergent.
• LdL: the lid is not locking. Check for items under the lid and detergent buildup around the lock.
• LdU: the lid cannot unlock. Remove anything, such as a laundry basket, from the top of the washer.

When to call a technician: the code returns after a reset. The lid lock or door lock assembly is the usual part, and it should never be bypassed. If the door will not open at all, see washer door won't unlock.

Load codes: uL, OFb, OL and F7 E1

• uL or OFb: the load is out of balance and the washer could not fix it on its own. Wait for the lid to unlock, spread the items evenly and press Start/Pause.
• Single items: Whirlpool suggests balancing a single item, such as a rug or a jean jacket, with a few towels, and using the Bulky/Sheets cycle with the Deep Water Wash option for comforters.
• OL: the load is too large. Remove some items and restart.
• F7 E1 (front-load): a motor speed sensing error. Whirlpool says to confirm the shipping bolts were removed and the washer is not overloaded.

When to call a technician: nearly every load ends in uL (usually worn suspension parts), or F7 E1 returns with a normal load. See washer shaking violently for the leveling checks first.

Other top-load HE codes

• HC: the hot and cold inlet hoses are reversed. Turn off the water, swap them and run another cycle.
• PF: a power failure interrupted the wash cycle. Hold Start or press Power to restart or clear the display.

Maytag washer codes

Maytag washers use many of the same codes. Maytag's support site publishes the same LF (F8 E1) long-fill page, with the same both-faucets, pump-out and drain-hose checks, and the same uL unbalanced-load steps. Check your Maytag owner's manual for the full list for your model.

What usually fails

• Drain pump: F9 E1 or drn with a clear hose and filter.
• Water inlet valve: F8 E1 or LF with the water on and clean screens.
• Lid lock or door lock: F5 codes, LdL or LdU that return after a reset.
• Motor or speed sensor: F7 E1 with a normal load.
• Suspension parts: constant uL.
• Control board: other F# E# codes that survive the reset. We test before replacing one.

When a code survives the reset and the checks above, book washer repair in Atlanta with the code written down; it tells the technician where to start.

What it costs in Atlanta

The diagnostic is $80, waived when you approve the repair. Washer repairs start at $180 plus parts, and typical all-in repairs run $250 to $450; pumps, locks, lid switches and valves fall in that range, while tub bearings and transmissions can exceed $500. You get a written flat-rate estimate before any work begins, and a Whirlpool washer repair can be finished on the first visit when the part is in stock. If a part must be ordered, there is no trip charge for the return visit. Every repair carries our 60-day parts-and-labor warranty. See our pricing.

Repair or replace?

InterNACHI's life-expectancy chart puts a washing machine at 5 to 15 years with regular maintenance. If a repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new washer and yours is past the middle of its life, replacement usually wins. Our guide on whether a washer is worth repairing walks through it.

Schedule a visit or read about our washer repair service. Prefer to talk? Call (470) 778-4087.