Error Codes
Samsung Washer Error Codes: 4C, 5C, UR, UB, dC, SUD and More
What Samsung washer codes 4C, 5C, SC, LE, Ub, Ur, dC and Sud mean, the checks Samsung recommends for each, and when you need a technician in Atlanta.
By Atlanta Appliance Techs · Published · Updated · 9 min read

Samsung washer error codes tell you which system is unhappy: water in, water out, the load balance, the door or the suds, and several clear with a quick check you can do yourself. Samsung uses several spellings for the same problem and says some codes mean different things on different models, so always confirm your code in your owner's manual or on Samsung's error code page.
| Code | Meaning | Try first | Call a technician when |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4C, 4E, nF | Water is not entering the washer correctly | Hoses hot to hot and cold to cold, valves fully open, drain hose 6 to 8 inches into the pipe, inlet filters clean | Water is on and filters are clear but it returns |
| 4C2, 4E2, CE | Water in the cold line is extremely hot: the hoses are swapped | Reconnect cold to cold and hot to hot | Only if the hoses are already correct |
| 5C, 5E, SC, SE, nd | Not draining at the correct speed, or at all | Level the washer, check the drain hose, clean the pump filter | The filter and hose are fine but it returns |
| OE, OC | Too much water in the washer | Run the drain checks; if it keeps filling with water, shut the water valves | It keeps filling, or the code returns |
| LE, 1E, LC | Moisture where it does not belong, or a sensor problem | Look for a leak, check the hoses, run an empty cycle and watch for suds | No visible leak and it keeps returning |
| Ub, UE, U6 | Unbalanced load | Untangle and rearrange the laundry, restart | Nearly every load ends this way |
| Ur | Unbalanced Load Retry: adding water and trying the spin again | Let it work; rearrange the load if it repeats | Nearly every load ends this way |
| dC, dE, dL, FL, LO | Door not detected as closed and locked (on some models dC means unbalanced) | Clear laundry from the door, close it fully, check the latch | The door closes cleanly and it persists |
| Sud, SUds, Sd | Over-sudsing; the washer pauses, then continues | Use HE detergent, never past the MAX line | Not needed; this is a detergent fix |
| 3C, 3E, E3 | Motor error (3E is a voltage error on some models) | Reset; put the washer on its own circuit with no extension cord | It returns after a reset |
| HE, HC, tE, tC, AE, AC, PE, PC | Heater, temperature sensor, communication or clutch position error | Reset | It returns after a reset |
| PF | Power failure before the washer turned itself off | Restart; own circuit, no extension cord | It happens with no outage |
| Cb | Calibration mode, not a fault | Let it finish with the tub empty | Not a fault |
| dn | Downloading an update, not a fault | Keep it powered on, about 15 minutes | Past 30 minutes with Wi-Fi working, contact Samsung |
| CL | Child Lock drained the water after the door was opened | Turn the washer off and on, or turn Child Lock off | Not a fault |
Safety first: unplug the washer or switch off its breaker before you remove any panel or reach behind it, and never tape, force or bypass the door lock.
How to reset a Samsung washer
Note the code first. Then:
- Power off. Samsung's error code page says to turn the washer off for 2 to 3 minutes, turn it back on and restart the cycle.
- For a full reset, unplug the washer or switch off its breaker. Samsung's reset page says to wait for the electrical charge to clear, usually 1 to 5 minutes at most, then power it up again.
- Restart the cycle and watch whether the code returns.
Know what a reset can and cannot do. Samsung says a reset clears the error codes in the washer's memory but does not fix whatever caused the error, and if a code comes back you should not keep clearing it, because resetting wipes the code history a technician uses to diagnose the problem.
Wi-Fi models have a separate network reset that refreshes only the Wi-Fi settings: hold Smart Control until AP shows, hold Temp until OK shows, then turn the washer off.
For other brands, see how to reset a washing machine.
Samsung washer water supply codes
4C (4E, nF): water supply problem
Samsung says water is not entering the washer correctly. Its checks, in order:
- Make sure the hot and cold hoses go to the matching inlets (hot to hot, cold to cold) and are not bent or kinked.
- Open both water valves all the way and leave them open while the washer runs.
- Check that the drain hose goes 6 to 8 inches into the drain pipe and is not kinked.
- Unplug the washer or switch off its breaker for 1 minute, then restore power and run a cycle.
- Turn off the water, disconnect the hoses at the washer and clean any debris out of the inlet filters.
When to call a technician: the water is on and the hoses and filters are clear, but 4C keeps coming back. A failed water inlet valve is the usual cause; see washer not filling with water.
4C2 (4E2, CE): hot and cold hoses reversed
The water in the cold line is extremely hot because the hoses are swapped.
- Turn off both water valves, then reconnect cold to cold and hot to hot (blue to blue, red to red).
Samsung says this code does not mean service is needed. Call only if the hoses are already correct and it persists.
Samsung washer drain codes: 5C, 5E, SC and SE
5C (5E, SC, SE, nd): drain problem
Samsung groups all of these as its No Drain error: water is not draining at the correct speed, or at all. Note that SC is a drain code on Samsung washers, not a suds code. The steps from Samsung's drain guide:
- Check that the washer is level; Samsung says a washer that is not level may not drain correctly.
- Check the drain hose. It should go 6 to 8 inches into the standpipe or sink without an airtight seal, have no kinks, and sit at least 18 inches high (24 for a wash basin) and no higher than 96 inches (35 for a basin), with no extension kit.
- On a front-loader, clean the pump filter behind the small door at the bottom front. Put down towels and a shallow pan first; the tub water comes out here.
- Start a test cycle. It should drain at the start; if not, Samsung says to request service.
When to call a technician: the filter is clean and the hose is right, but the code returns. The drain pump is the usual cause; see washer not draining or spinning.
OE (OC): too much water
Samsung calls this an Overflow error: there is too much water in the washer.
- Work through the 5C drain checks above.
- If the washer keeps filling with water, Samsung's fill guide says to turn off the water valves and request service.
When to call a technician: water keeps coming in, or OE returns. A water inlet valve stuck open or a faulty water level sensor is the usual cause.
LE (1E, LC): water level or leak
Samsung says moisture has been detected somewhere it does not belong, or the sensor itself has a problem.
- Look for a leak around and under the washer, and fix what you find.
- Make sure the hoses behind the washer are not kinked, and check each connection and its rubber washer.
- On a front-loader, fold back the door seal and look for damage or trapped items.
- Run an empty cycle with no detergent or softener and watch for suds, a sign of detergent build-up.
When to call a technician: there is no visible leak and the code keeps returning. Our guide to a washer leaking from the bottom covers where to look.
Samsung washer balance, door and suds codes
Ub (UE, U6, Ur): unbalanced load
Samsung says the load is unbalanced in the tub. Ur means Unbalanced Load Retry: the washer is going to add more water, try to balance the load and then try the spin again, so the cycle runs longer.
- Untangle and spread the laundry evenly, especially sheets and blankets, then close the door and restart.
- Level the washer so all four corners sit firmly on the floor.
- Run calibration mode with the tub empty. The buttons vary by model, so check your manual; Samsung's shaking guide gives holding Temp and Delay End for 3 seconds until Cb appears as one example.
When to call a technician: nearly every load ends in Ub. Worn shock absorbers, suspension rods or springs are the usual cause; see washer shaking violently.
dC (dE, dL, FL, LO): door not closed and locked
Samsung says the door is not detected as closed and locked. On some Samsung models, though, dC is an unbalanced load code instead, so check your manual.
- Make sure no laundry is caught in the door and it closes fully.
- Check that the latch is secure and undamaged.
- Never force the door open or bypass the lock.
When to call a technician: the door closes cleanly and the code persists, or the latch is damaged. The door lock is the usual repair. If the door will not open at all, see washer door won't unlock.
Sud (SUds, Sd): too many suds
Samsung says the washer has detected an over-sudsing condition and stops for a short period to let the suds dissipate, then continues on its own; the code may flash again at the end of the cycle as a reminder. It is not a service error. It comes from using detergent incorrectly.
- Use HE detergent only. Samsung says its washers require it.
- Never fill past the MAX line in the detergent drawer.
- Use the least detergent that gets clothes clean. If the bottle calls for more than the MAX line, wash a smaller load or use a more concentrated detergent.
No technician needed; this is a detergent fix.
3C (3E, E3): motor error
Samsung lists 3C, 3E and E3 as a motor error. On some models 3E is a voltage error instead, so check your manual.
- Do the basic reset above.
- Make sure the washer is on its own circuit, not an extension cord.
When to call a technician: the code returns after a reset. The motor, its wiring or the control board is at fault, and we test before replacing parts.
Codes that are not faults
- Cb: calibration mode. It recalibrates the washer's weight detection, runs for 1 to 3 minutes and needs an empty tub.
- dn: a software update of about 15 minutes. Past 30 minutes, contact Samsung.
- CL: Child Lock has drained the water from the tub after the door was opened. Turn the washer off and on, or turn Child Lock off.
Other codes Samsung lists
Samsung also lists heater (HE, HC), temperature sensor (tE, tC), communication (AE, AC) and clutch position (PE, PC) errors. Do the basic reset; if the code returns, call for service.
PF appears when the power went out before the washer powered itself off, whether from an outage, an unplugged washer or a tripped breaker. If there was no outage, make sure the washer has its own circuit and no extension cord.
What it costs in Atlanta
The diagnostic is $80, waived when you approve the repair. Washer repairs start at $180 plus parts, and a typical washer repair on a standard brand runs $250 to $450 all in, with a written flat-rate estimate before any work begins. A Samsung washer repair can be finished on the first visit when the part is in stock; if a part must be ordered, there is no trip charge for the return visit. Every repair carries our 60-day parts-and-labor warranty. See our pricing and, for an older washer, our repair-or-replace guide.
If the code keeps coming back after the checks above, our front-load and top-load washer repair visit starts with reading that code and testing the part behind it. Have an LG too? See LG washer error codes.
Schedule a visit or read about our washer repair service. Prefer to talk? Call (470) 778-4087.
Sources
- Samsung: Samsung washing machine error codes
- Samsung: How to reset your Samsung washer
- Samsung: Samsung washing machine will not drain
- Samsung: How to use detergent in your Samsung washing machine
- Samsung: Samsung washing machine is shaking too much
- Samsung: Water fill issues with Samsung washing machines
How we write and check these guides: editorial policy. Spot an error? Email hello@atlantaappliancetechs.com.
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