Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid Oven Error Codes (F3E2, F6E1, F2E1)

Whirlpool oven error codes are two-part fault codes, such as F3E2, that the oven control shows when it detects a problem with a temperature sensor, the keypad, the door latch, a control board or the wiring between them. Whirlpool's first step for almost every one is a one-minute breaker reset; if the code comes back, the oven needs a technician.

Codes vary by model, and Whirlpool notes that a code may be displayed in an F# E# or an E# F# format, so F3 E2 might read E2 F3 on your display. Confirm yours in your owner's manual or on Whirlpool's wall oven error code list.

Safety first: switch off the breaker before removing any panel, and never pry, force or bypass the door lock. We repair gas, electric and induction ovens; if you have a gas range and smell gas, leave the house and call 911 or your gas utility from outside.

How to reset a Whirlpool oven

This is the reset Whirlpool gives on its code pages for both ranges and wall ovens:

1. Turn the oven off, let it cool if it is hot, and write down the full code with the model and serial number.
2. Switch off the circuit breaker (or breakers) that powers the oven.
3. Leave it off for one minute, then switch it back on.
4. Watch the display for one minute to make sure the code does not return, then run a short bake to confirm the oven works.
5. If the code comes back, stop using the oven and book service.

After powering up, wait a few seconds before pressing any keys. Whirlpool says pressing keys during the oven's 10-second power-up delay can itself bring up an F9 code. A reset can clear a one-time glitch. A code that keeps returning means a part has failed or a connection has worked loose.

F3E2: oven temperature sensor

On Whirlpool wall ovens, F3E2 (shown as F3 E2) means there may be a problem with the oven temperature sensor, the control or the associated wiring. On ranges, Whirlpool lists the oven temperature sensor, the warming drawer sensor if the range has one, or the wiring.

The sensor is the thin metal rod on the back wall of the oven. It tells the control how hot the oven is, so a failing sensor can also make the oven run hot or cold; see oven not holding temperature.

• Do the breaker reset.
• If F3E2 returns, stop using the oven until it is checked.

When to call a technician: F3E2 comes back after the reset. A damaged wire or a loose connector can throw the same code as a failed sensor, so we test the sensor, its wiring and its connector before we quote a part.

F3E0 and F3E1: upper and lower oven sensors

On double wall ovens, Whirlpool uses F3 E0 for the upper oven temperature sensor and F3 E1 for the lower one, again including the control and wiring. Same reset, same next step.

F6E1: appliance manager or converter control

F6E1 on a Whirlpool wall oven means there may be a problem with the appliance manager control, the converter control or the associated wiring, and F6 E2 carries the same description. These are control boards, not heating parts.

• Do the breaker reset.
• If the code clears, keep an eye on the next few bakes.

When to call a technician: the code returns. Control boards are among the pricier oven parts, so we check the connections and test the board before we quote one.

F2E1: keypad or user interface

F2E1 points to the user interface or keypad, the control or the associated wiring. On wall ovens, F1 E0 also points to the touchpad.

On a range, Whirlpool's first step for F2E1 is to check the cooktop grates:

1. Let the range cool.
2. Rock each grate corner to corner and side to side. It should sit level and firm.
3. If a grate wobbles, it may be installed backwards; try switching the grates.
4. Cycle the power at the breaker to reset the code.

When to call a technician: the grates sit level and the code returns after the reset, or buttons stop responding. The keypad or its connection to the control is the usual repair.

Other Whirlpool oven codes you may see

• F1 E1: on wall ovens, the oven appliance manager control or its wiring.
• F5 E1 and F5 E2: the door latch assembly, the door switch or the wiring. The latch locks the door for self-clean. If the door is stuck shut, see oven door locked after self-clean, and never pry it.
• F9 or F9 E0: Whirlpool says this most often means the appliance is wired incorrectly at the home's electrical supply or at the hard-wire connection, for example with the L2 and neutral wires swapped. Power-line noise during an outage can also trigger it. Try the reset. If F9 returns, the supply wiring needs a licensed electrician; if the oven was just installed, the installation wiring is the first suspect.

Every code above gets the same one-minute breaker reset first.

When a code keeps coming back, Whirlpool wall oven and range repair starts with the same reset, then a test of the part the code names and its wiring.

Maytag and KitchenAid oven error codes

Maytag and KitchenAid are Whirlpool Corporation brands, and their support sites use the same code format as Whirlpool. For the codes checked for this guide, the meanings match: Maytag's site gives F3 E2 on ranges the same oven temperature sensor, warming drawer sensor or wiring description, KitchenAid's gives F2 E1 on ranges the same keypad description and grate check, and KitchenAid lists F6 E1 on wall ovens as the appliance manager control, converter control or wiring. Each uses the same one-minute breaker reset. Not every model uses every code, so check your manual.

What usually fails

• Oven temperature sensor: F3 codes, often with an oven that runs hot or cold. If it will not heat at all, see oven not heating up.
• Keypad or touchpad: F2 E1 and F1 E0, or buttons that do not respond.
• Control boards: F1 E1 and F6 codes.
• Door latch assembly or door switch: F5 codes, a door that will not lock for self-clean, or one stuck locked.
• Wiring and connectors: any of these codes. A loose or heat-damaged connector can mimic a failed part, which is why connections get checked first.

What it costs in Atlanta

For freestanding ranges, the diagnostic is $80 and repairs start at $180 plus parts. Built-in wall ovens and double ovens take more time to access, so the diagnostic is $120 and repairs start at $250 plus parts. On standard brands, typical all-in repairs run $230–$450 for a range and $330–$550 for a wall oven; premium brands run higher. The diagnostic is waived when you approve the repair, and you get a written flat-rate estimate before any work begins. If the part is in stock, the repair can usually be done on the first visit, and there is no trip charge for a return visit to install an ordered part. Every repair carries our 60-day parts-and-labor warranty. See our pricing.

Repair or replace?

Most of these codes come down to one part, and a new wall oven has to fit your cabinet cutout, so repair usually wins. Our repair-or-replace guide explains the 50% rule.

Schedule a visit or read about our oven repair service. Prefer to talk? Call (470) 778-4087.