Dryer Not Spinning or Won't Start? Causes and Fixes

A dryer that won't start at all and a dryer not spinning while the motor hums are two different problems, and telling them apart is the first step. A dryer that will not start usually has a power, door, control-lock or safety-device problem. A dryer that runs but will not turn the drum usually has a broken belt or a failed idler pulley. Both are common, inexpensive repairs.

Safety first. Unplug the dryer, or switch off its breaker, before you pull it out or look inside; electric dryers run on 240 volts. We repair gas and electric dryers. If you smell gas, do not touch light switches or use a phone inside; get everyone out of the house and call 911 or your gas utility from outside.

Checks you can do yourself

Work through these in order. Most of them are the first things a technician will check, too.

1. Look for a control lock. Many electronic dryers have a control lock or child lock. On Samsung dryers, for example, Samsung notes that Child Lock stops the Start button from working, and its icon is lit when it is on. The buttons you hold to turn it off differ by model, so check your owner's manual.
2. Close the door firmly. A dryer will not run with the door open, and a sock caught in the door can keep it from latching. Whirlpool notes that some of its models have both an upper and a lower latch, and both must be secure.
3. Press and hold Start. Many dryers need the Start button held, not tapped; Whirlpool says two to five seconds. On a dial model, make sure the knob is turned fully into a dry cycle; some Whirlpool dryers will not start on the Wrinkle Reduction setting.
4. Check the plug and the breaker. Make sure the plug is pushed all the way into the outlet. An electric dryer uses a double-pole breaker, which is two breakers joined by one handle, or two fuses. Switch the breaker fully off, then back on. If it trips again, leave it off and call; something is drawing too much current.
5. Look at the power cord. Without opening anything, check the cord where it enters the back of the dryer. Scorching, melted plastic or a burning smell means leave it unplugged and call.
6. Turn the drum by hand. With the dryer unplugged, open the door and turn the drum. With a good belt, the drum turns with steady resistance. If it spins very freely, the belt has likely slipped or snapped. If it is hard to move at all, the drum may be seized, which needs a technician.
7. Lighten the load. A heavy load of wet towels or jeans strains the belt and motor. Take some items out and try again.

Dryer not turning on

If nothing lights up and nothing happens, the dryer is not getting power, or its control has failed. GE's factory service site suggests a quick test: open the door, and if the drum light comes on, you can rule out a power problem.

An electric dryer draws power through two 120-volt legs. If one fuse has blown, a connection is loose, or the breaker itself is failing, the dryer can lose just one leg, and depending on which one, it is either completely dead or runs without heat. Whirlpool says electric dryers use two household fuses or circuit breakers, and both must be working. Beyond that, the usual causes are a damaged power cord or terminal block, where the cord connects to the dryer, and, on electronic models, a failed control board. Those are jobs for a technician with a meter, and outlet or panel problems are jobs for an electrician.

Dryer not starting

If the display lights up but the drum never moves when you press Start, and the control lock and door are not the problem, a switch or a safety device is stopping the dryer. GE Appliances Factory Service lists the door switch, the start switch, the thermal fuse, the drive motor and the control board as the usual causes. The part list below explains the sign that points to each.

Dryer runs but drum not turning

If you can hear the motor running but the drum stays still, the connection between the motor and the drum has failed. Whirlpool says a worn belt is a likely cause when you can hear the motor running but the drum is not spinning. Do the hand test in check 6. If the belt broke, find out why: a seized idler pulley or worn drum rollers often take a belt with them, and replacing the belt alone means it breaks again. Do not keep running a dryer that heats but does not tumble; the clothes stay damp and other parts can be damaged.

What usually fails

• Drive belt. The motor runs, the drum does not, and the drum turns freely by hand. Some dryers keep running with a broken belt; others have a switch that stops the motor when the belt breaks, so they seem dead.
• Idler pulley. This spring-loaded wheel keeps tension on the belt. When its bearing wears out, it squeals, then seizes or breaks, and the belt slips off or burns through. A new belt usually goes on with it.
• Drum rollers. The drum rides on rollers, and on some models on front glides as well. Whirlpool links failing rollers to a dryer that will not spin or makes a loud, rumbling sound, and notes they are typically replaced as a set.
• Door switch. It tells the dryer the door is closed, and it wears out after thousands of openings. GE notes that a door switch that is scorched or pushed in can keep the dryer from operating. Please do not tape or bypass it; it is what stops the drum when a hand goes in.
• Start switch. On push-button and dial models, the switch itself can fail, so pressing Start does nothing while the display or light still works.
• Thermal fuse. A one-time safety device that blows when the dryer overheats. On Whirlpool-built dryers and many GE models it shuts the dryer down, so it will not start at all; on some other designs, depending on the model, it only cuts the heat, which we cover in dryer not heating. GE's factory service site says a blown fuse has to be replaced before the dryer will operate again, and that a blocked exhaust vent is the likely reason it blew. That same restricted vent is why many dryers take forever to dry before the fuse finally goes.
• Motor. A motor that hums for a few seconds and then clicks off, or runs with a burning smell, has failed or is straining against a jammed drum. Stop pressing Start; a stalled motor overheats.
• Control board. On electronic models, the board sends power to the motor and other parts. GE's factory service site says main control boards rarely fail, so a technician tests the switches, fuse and motor first before replacing a board.

A belt, pulley and rollers are usually done together, so book a technician to replace the belt and idler pulley and check the rollers while the drum is out.

What dryer repair costs in Atlanta

The diagnostic is $80 and is waived when you approve the repair. Dryer repairs start at $180 labor plus parts, and typical dryer repairs on standard brands run $230 to $380 all in. You get a written flat-rate estimate before any work begins. Belts, idler pulleys, rollers, switches and thermal fuses are among the least expensive dryer parts. Many repairs can be finished on the first visit, and if a part has to be ordered, there is no trip charge for the return visit. Every dryer repair includes an airflow check at the machine, which matters most when a thermal fuse has blown. Every repair carries our 60-day parts-and-labor warranty. See our pricing.

Repair or replace?

Dryers are simple machines, and nearly every part behind these symptoms is inexpensive. Unless the motor or the drum itself has failed on an older dryer, repair is usually the better value. Our repair-or-replace guide has the rule of thumb.

Schedule a visit or read about our dryer repair service. Prefer to talk? Call (470) 778-4087.